The FAST fabric objective measurement properties of commercial worsted apparel fabrics available in South Africa
- Authors: Das, Sweta
- Date: 2018
- Subjects: Textile fabrics -- Testing , Textile fabrics -- Measurement , Textile fibers -- Testing , Textile design
- Language: English
- Type: Thesis , Doctoral , PhD
- Identifier: http://hdl.handle.net/10948/17814 , vital:28458
- Description: In the last few decades, there has been a shift globally towards the objective measurement of these textile fibre, yarn and fabric properties which determine processing performance and product quality. This shift is also very apparent in the objective measurement of fabric properties, particularly those relating to handle and making-up into a garment. This study was motivated by the fact that the adoption of fabric objective measurement (FOM), specifically the FAST system, will benefit the South African worsted apparel sector, as it has done in various other countries which produce high quality worsted apparel fabrics and garments. FAST is robust and portable, yet inexpensive. The main objective of the study was to develop a FAST referencing system which can be used for benchmarking by the local apparel industry and, as a basis for encouraging and persuading the industry to adopt this system of fabric quality measurement and assurance and thereby improve their product quality and international competitiveness. To achieve the main objective, involved sourcing and FAST testing a representative cross-section of commercial worsted apparel fabrics with the emphasis on wool and wool blends from the local fabric and clothing manufacturing industry, and determining how the various FAST properties were affected by factors such as fabric weave, fibre blend and weight, since this could impact on the specific nature and validity of the referencing system. A total of some 394 worsted type commercial fabrics, mainly in wool and wool blends, were sourced from, and with the inputs of, local apparel fabric and clothing manufacturers so as to ensure the local fabric and garment representative of the sample population and after which the fabrics were tested on the FAST system. ANOVA (regression analysis) was carried out on each of the FAST parameters in order to determine whether fabric weight, weave, thickness and fibre composition (pure wool and wool blends) had a statistically significant effect on them, since this is an important aspect which needs to be clarified prior to the development of a envisaged meaningful FAST system.
- Full Text:
- Date Issued: 2018
- Authors: Das, Sweta
- Date: 2018
- Subjects: Textile fabrics -- Testing , Textile fabrics -- Measurement , Textile fibers -- Testing , Textile design
- Language: English
- Type: Thesis , Doctoral , PhD
- Identifier: http://hdl.handle.net/10948/17814 , vital:28458
- Description: In the last few decades, there has been a shift globally towards the objective measurement of these textile fibre, yarn and fabric properties which determine processing performance and product quality. This shift is also very apparent in the objective measurement of fabric properties, particularly those relating to handle and making-up into a garment. This study was motivated by the fact that the adoption of fabric objective measurement (FOM), specifically the FAST system, will benefit the South African worsted apparel sector, as it has done in various other countries which produce high quality worsted apparel fabrics and garments. FAST is robust and portable, yet inexpensive. The main objective of the study was to develop a FAST referencing system which can be used for benchmarking by the local apparel industry and, as a basis for encouraging and persuading the industry to adopt this system of fabric quality measurement and assurance and thereby improve their product quality and international competitiveness. To achieve the main objective, involved sourcing and FAST testing a representative cross-section of commercial worsted apparel fabrics with the emphasis on wool and wool blends from the local fabric and clothing manufacturing industry, and determining how the various FAST properties were affected by factors such as fabric weave, fibre blend and weight, since this could impact on the specific nature and validity of the referencing system. A total of some 394 worsted type commercial fabrics, mainly in wool and wool blends, were sourced from, and with the inputs of, local apparel fabric and clothing manufacturers so as to ensure the local fabric and garment representative of the sample population and after which the fabrics were tested on the FAST system. ANOVA (regression analysis) was carried out on each of the FAST parameters in order to determine whether fabric weight, weave, thickness and fibre composition (pure wool and wool blends) had a statistically significant effect on them, since this is an important aspect which needs to be clarified prior to the development of a envisaged meaningful FAST system.
- Full Text:
- Date Issued: 2018
Quality issues related to apparel mechandising in South Africa
- Authors: Das, Sweta
- Date: 2011
- Subjects: Fashion merchandising -- South Africa , Quality of products -- South Africa
- Language: English
- Type: Thesis , Masters , MSc
- Identifier: vital:10447 , http://hdl.handle.net/10948/1585 , Fashion merchandising -- South Africa , Quality of products -- South Africa
- Description: The objectives of this study are to develop an understanding of the quality related issues and gaps relevant to apparel merchandising within the South African context, with a specific focus on Fabric Objective Measurement, a relatively new technology and one which could fruitfully be applied in South Africa, but which appears to have been largely neglected to date. Fabric Objective Measurement (FOM) represents a new generation of instrumentally measured parameters which provide a more complete picture of fabric quality, tailorability and clothing performance. The two main FOM systems, FAST and Kawabata, are discussed under FOM in terms of their applications, control charts and their worldwide utilisation. A literature review has been done on the global clothing sector as well as South African clothing industry. The research involved a questionnaire survey of, and interviews with major clothing and retail companies in South Africa with a specific focus on the gap in the South African clothing industry in terms of FOM and other quality related issues. The data and information so captured are presented graphically, statistically analyzed and interpreted, to arrive at the main conclusions and recommendations. Trubok, Newcastle, the only company in South Africa utilizing FOM, was visited in order to obtain hands on experience with the FAST system as operated in a mill. Two different fabrics were tested and the control charts obtained were interpreted. According to the analysis of the questionnaires and interviews, various conclusions could be drawn. When benchmarking a product, quality emerged as the first criterion, 100 percent retailers and manufacturers agreed to this. Most respondents stated that their fabric and garment testing is mostly done in-house while other respondents stated that their fabric and garment testing is mostly done by their respective suppliers. The most commonly used outside laboratories are SGS and ITS. Merchandising and quality complement each other and with proper quality assessment the merchandising workflow becomes smooth, easy and timely delivery of products. All of the respondents (100 percent) supported this fact. Retailers and manufacturers agreed that quality and merchandising are related to each other and hence helping those in achieving product benchmarking (statistically significant at 95 percent confidence level). Retailers and manufacturers conduct fabric and garment tests on a regular/routine basis and mostly use knitted and woven fabrics in garment making. In addition to the above, the worldwide manufacturers and suppliers of the FAST and Kawabata systems were approached to obtain data and information about the number of such systems sold worldwide and their fields of application. This information was considered important in promoting FOM in South Africa. Only one manufacturer is presently using FAST for quality control purposes. Of the manufacturers and retailers covered, most of them were either unfamiliar or totally unaware of FOM and its application. This indicates that there is considerable scope for introducing this highly advanced technology into the textile and clothing manufacturing and retail pipeline in South Africa. Most of the manufacturers and retailers (50 percent) intend to introduce certain new tests in future. The tests that they are planning to introduce in future may include FAST, which is fairly simple, reliable and productive, as well as enhancing the quality of the garment. If used, FOM can improve the quality and competitiveness on the international level which is currently lacking in the South African clothing sector.
- Full Text:
- Date Issued: 2011
- Authors: Das, Sweta
- Date: 2011
- Subjects: Fashion merchandising -- South Africa , Quality of products -- South Africa
- Language: English
- Type: Thesis , Masters , MSc
- Identifier: vital:10447 , http://hdl.handle.net/10948/1585 , Fashion merchandising -- South Africa , Quality of products -- South Africa
- Description: The objectives of this study are to develop an understanding of the quality related issues and gaps relevant to apparel merchandising within the South African context, with a specific focus on Fabric Objective Measurement, a relatively new technology and one which could fruitfully be applied in South Africa, but which appears to have been largely neglected to date. Fabric Objective Measurement (FOM) represents a new generation of instrumentally measured parameters which provide a more complete picture of fabric quality, tailorability and clothing performance. The two main FOM systems, FAST and Kawabata, are discussed under FOM in terms of their applications, control charts and their worldwide utilisation. A literature review has been done on the global clothing sector as well as South African clothing industry. The research involved a questionnaire survey of, and interviews with major clothing and retail companies in South Africa with a specific focus on the gap in the South African clothing industry in terms of FOM and other quality related issues. The data and information so captured are presented graphically, statistically analyzed and interpreted, to arrive at the main conclusions and recommendations. Trubok, Newcastle, the only company in South Africa utilizing FOM, was visited in order to obtain hands on experience with the FAST system as operated in a mill. Two different fabrics were tested and the control charts obtained were interpreted. According to the analysis of the questionnaires and interviews, various conclusions could be drawn. When benchmarking a product, quality emerged as the first criterion, 100 percent retailers and manufacturers agreed to this. Most respondents stated that their fabric and garment testing is mostly done in-house while other respondents stated that their fabric and garment testing is mostly done by their respective suppliers. The most commonly used outside laboratories are SGS and ITS. Merchandising and quality complement each other and with proper quality assessment the merchandising workflow becomes smooth, easy and timely delivery of products. All of the respondents (100 percent) supported this fact. Retailers and manufacturers agreed that quality and merchandising are related to each other and hence helping those in achieving product benchmarking (statistically significant at 95 percent confidence level). Retailers and manufacturers conduct fabric and garment tests on a regular/routine basis and mostly use knitted and woven fabrics in garment making. In addition to the above, the worldwide manufacturers and suppliers of the FAST and Kawabata systems were approached to obtain data and information about the number of such systems sold worldwide and their fields of application. This information was considered important in promoting FOM in South Africa. Only one manufacturer is presently using FAST for quality control purposes. Of the manufacturers and retailers covered, most of them were either unfamiliar or totally unaware of FOM and its application. This indicates that there is considerable scope for introducing this highly advanced technology into the textile and clothing manufacturing and retail pipeline in South Africa. Most of the manufacturers and retailers (50 percent) intend to introduce certain new tests in future. The tests that they are planning to introduce in future may include FAST, which is fairly simple, reliable and productive, as well as enhancing the quality of the garment. If used, FOM can improve the quality and competitiveness on the international level which is currently lacking in the South African clothing sector.
- Full Text:
- Date Issued: 2011
- «
- ‹
- 1
- ›
- »